Stuff from All Over

Even a crappy golf course is made

scenic by nearby mountains.

Nice view. Notice how dry the grass is on the

left. It must have cost a fortune to irrigate

the course.

Leftover picture of Chanco from my trip

to the South.

Pretty awesome hang-time. This guy won 

the class-3 title.

Before the race we had lunch in the VIP

section, in the middle of the track, with

cars just zooming by, kicking up a ton of dust.

It's been quite a while since I last posted, and I apologize. Trying to stay up to date and faithful to a blog is not very, which is why many people start them up and drop them after just a few weeks.

I thought I'd take this opportunity to summarize what I've been up to this month, so far.

First of all, I'd like to inform everyone that my citizenship finally came through and am now waiting until the 22nd to get my ID and passport, which is pretty cool if you think that I am now a double-citizen with two separate passports. The Chilean passport will be great if I can fulfill my desire to go to Cuba while I'm here, which would be something that most Americans have never done.

As far as work goes, I've been quite busy of late. At the political science department at the Universidad del Desarrollo, I've been working on an integral project focusing on Chinese participation on behalf of Chile in the War of the Pacific in 1880. We're going to examine Chinese migrant worker participation during the war, and then hopefully translate that information into a seminar, a book, a documentary, and a monument in Santiago. It's a huge undertaking that has left me rather overwhelmed, but I'm working through it and hopefully the Chinese government will give us the funds necessary to make the project a reality.

At the University of Chile Law School's Department of Environmental Law, I've been researching a variety of topics. Most notably, I've written a position paper on a large hydroelectric power plant project in the south called Hidroaysen, which has been quite a controversial issue. I've also assisted a group of people who are attempting to rewrite part of the Kyoto Protocols to better assist developing nations in reducing greenhouse emissions.

As for my social life goes, I've continued to have a great time meeting people and going out. My apartment is slowly becoming the default place to go to before the pubs or discos because I am always willing to have people over and everyone else basically still lives at home. I've been all over the place, but still really want to go to the pubs and discos that are in the west side of town. It's hard to convince people to go because they feel unsafe, but I want to see how the average Chilean parties and has fun. I also hear that the discos there are wild.

In addition to going out, I also got my gambling and golf fixes, something I haven't done since leaving the states. A new casino was recently opened to the south of Santiago, and I went with my friend Erik and his girlfriend for his birthday. It was surprisingly nice and slightly reminiscent of Vegas. I won about $500 that night, which was a pretty sweet haul. As for golf, I went with a Canadian friend to the only public course in Chile, which is located near the airport on the "banks" of the Mapocho river. I say "banks" because the river is so low and dry right now. I would say that it's actual composition is 50% water, 20% piss and vomit, 20% battery acid, and 10% left over dead bodies from the various dictatorships. To sum it up, basically it was the most revolting smell I've ever gleaned from a river. The course wasn't too bad though and it was fun to get out and play, albeit that the actual golfing part didn't go quite so well.

Finally, I will be home for about two weeks in exactly one month. I'm excited to go back home for a little while, though I will miss the sun and the warm weather. I'll be coming back to Chile in early February, where I'll have the month off from work to go travel all over. I also recommend that anyone who wants to visit come during that time, seeing as how it's the coldest time in the states, the warmed here, and I'll be free to show you around. Also, tickets right now are the cheapest they've been in six months. 

Above I put some random pictures from RallyMobil (a rally race I was invited to), my golfing trip, and some other stuff.

Stay tuned later this week for my final food posting concerning my favorite meal!

Food and Culture in the the South of Chile

The cordillera in the background of some rice patties.

A beautiful view from Safari Mountain of the Pacific and Pelluhue

from the elevation of Chanco.

Cold mariscal soup.

My mountain of meat and potatoes.

A "normal" lunch spread.

I originally wanted to do this post a week ago so it was still relevant to my trip, but because of work and what not I lost the time and now have it again after handing in a project yesterday.

On my trip to the South two weeks ago, I definitely gained at least 2-3 pounds in about 2 days, though through no fault of my own. You see, the South is very famous for hospitality. For any of you that been to my home, you know that my mother keeps the pantry always fully stocked and constantly offers food. Think of the entire South of Chile as a region inhabited by Jewish-Latina mothers who see all guests as their grandchildren. The hospitality I received from Erik´s parents was unparalleled; considering they had never met me and let me stay in their home, fed me at least 4 times a day, and took time off from work to show me around all day was very kind. 

The main consistency of the diet in the South is generally fish (where Erik lives it's "congrio", also known as Conger Eel) or on special occasions, meat. On Saturday, I returned to Erik's house around 2pm to the largest "asado" (Spanish term for grill out or BBQ) I have ever seen. In addition to the five salads that had been homemade and laid out, there was home-made bread ("pan amasado"), a bunch of homemade drinks and artesian wine, and the most full plate I've ever seen. My plate contained two potatoes, a piece of steak, a home-made sausage, a chicken breast, and a pork loin. Needless to say I was quite overwhelmed. I ate as much as I could, but they just kept giving me more. After about 45 minutes of madness, I rolled out of my chair, stalked over to the couch, and eagerly awaited what I though was to be an impending heart attack followed by at least a double bypass.

The only problem with Southern hospitality is that you can't say no. If you say no, they become very offended. You can be in the poorest of homes, and they will feed you until you burst, because that is what they have to offer you, and that tradition has been passed down. And when I say offended, I mean it. Erik's mother ate like a bird (she was a tiny woman), but watched me and Hans constantly. At one point I didn't take a spoonful of one of the salads, and she looked at me and said that I hadn't tried that salad and then promptly took the spoon and served me some anyway. I was on the verge of bursting into tears.

On Sunday, we sat down to a similar spread, only this time there was a seafood soup at my placing. The soup, known as "mariscal," is a cold soup with a broth made from lemon juice, cilantro, salt, and some of the water used to cook the seafood. In it were mussels, squid, clams, fish, and cochayuyo. Cochayuyo is Chilean seaweed and is often used in stews, soups, and salads. It is one of the healthiest things to eat on Earth, and actually tastes great. In any event, I thought the mariscal was the main course, but then I was served another plate with a mountain of meat and potatoes. Then for dessert, Erik's mom brought out fresh strawberries and cream, and I was thrilled because it was the first relatively light thing I was served. But then she brought out the second dessert which was a giant glass of "mote con huesillo." This common street and home-made drink/dessert is made of sun-dried peaches that are then rehydrated in sweet water for days and then mixed with husked wheat and all served together. It was delicious but I was about to burst and barely dented it half-way.

I loved the time I spent in the South, even though I ate heinous amounts of food and rolled all the way back to Santiago. There is nothing like Southern hospitality or food, you won't find any people more friendly or proud, nor will you find fresher, more delicious food.

Pelluhue

My friend Erik on top of a big rock where the villagers

have erected monuments to the fisherman that haven't returned.

There was a memorial as new as this past May.

The beaches of Pelluhue stretch on as far

as you can see.

An array of colorful fishing boats that populate

the beach in the late afternoon.

Me and Pelluhue behind me.

Big cave under a lookout point on the beach. It was

filled with prophylactics and empty liquor bottles.

Apparently even in small towns there's always something

going on somewhere.

Trip to Chanco

Erik's House

The most beautiful strawberries in the world.

A typical southern house, complete with creepy

girl from The Ring, in the picture.

View from the top of a mountain on the way 

to Chanco.

Retarded yet still picturesque construction.

This weekend I traveled south to Chanco and Pelluhue (pronounced pe-yoo-way), having been invited by my friend Erik to spend a weekend at his home and see the sights. We left Friday and began the six-hour drive around 4pm. The route took us basically straight south until we got off the central freeway and took side routes west towards the coast. The whole time, all I could think was how incredibly beautiful everything was, so beautiful in fact that I find it stupid. Whether it was the Cordillera mountains or the rolling hills and slopes of vineyards, there's beauty around every corner here.

After some pretty horrible traffic due to road construction (I have to admit that they seem to execute road repairs about as effectively as a 90 year-old with Alzheimer's can do long division), we arrived in Chanco, to my friend's home, around 10:30. My first impression was how beautiful the sky was, considering I hadn't seen a star in over two months in Santiago, the sky was breathtaking. My second sentiment was "holy shit, this is rural." Considering that my friend's family live reasonably well, it was a shock to see only one old TV, no internet, and a wood-burning stove inside.

After a "light" dinner, we drank a big pitcher filled with clary, an alcoholic beverage made from artesian wine, fruit, and juice. It was very smooth and tasted more like juice. After consuming the fruit at the end of my third glass, I was definitely more than just a little happy. We then went to bed, only to be woken up the next day by their rooster. Yes, I was woken up by a rooster, and there's nothing relaxing or quaint about it. I'll spare the meal sections in order to devote a post to southern cooking tomorrow. For now, suffice it to say that I came back weighing an extra four pounds from before.

On Saturday we took a tour of Pelluhue, which is the sister town to Chanco. Pelluhue is a beautiful beach town mostly dedicated to artesian fishing. Chanco is slightly more inland and is famous for producing strawberries, honey, and most of all cheese. I'll put up some pictures of Pelluhue, but it was stunning- right out of a Pablo Neruda poem. We drove and walked through town and then the beach. We stopped at the local radio station where Erik used to work where we chatted with the DJ/Mayor of Pelluhue. As we talked every car that passed by seemed to honk and wave or scream hello. Erik commented that here most people don't have cell phones, and because the town is so tiny everyone knows one another and they just holler across the street or what not. This was a sharp contrast to Santiago where no one goes out of their way to say hello. Not only did Erik seem to know everyone, but even if you don't you say hello to everyone or else they think you're rude.

After touring we came back and ate what they called lunch and what I now call a meal to feed all of Ethiopia. After rolling out of my chair, all I could do was crawl to the couch and take a nap. After about 20 minutes of napping, we all awoke and began to drink more clary and play darts outside. Three hours later, there was tea and about six different types of cakes, about the last thing I wanted. Then they served dinner which was about 3/4 the meal of lunch.

We drank more into the evening and went to bed quite easily. On Sunday morning I didn't awake to any rooster which was surprising. When I asked where the rooster was, Erik's father said that he was probably sleeping in, and then laughed, which leads me to believe that he might have later been lunch, though I don't think I'll ever know.

After breakfast, Erik's father took us on what I can only call a mountain safari. We hopped into this tall 4x4 and went up a mountain into this forest used to make wood products, many of which are exported to the states. The route was treacherous, and for a gringo like myself, stressful as he was driving like a maniac about six inches from a perilous fall down the mountain. However, the journey was well worth it because it lead to an interesting encounter with some oxen and then to some of the most gorgeous ocean views I've ever seen.

On the way back from the safari, we stopped at the Chanco fair to buy some food and other things. Since there are no stores really in Chanco, you can buy pretty much everything at the Sunday fair. There I bought, to no surprise, a giant block of cheese, about three pounds of the reddest cherries I've ever seen, and a kilo of honey, all for less than $8. After greeting everyone, because everyone was excited to see Erik back, we headed home to another delicious/agonizing lunch and then hung out a bit more. Around 4pm, we packed up and headed north. On the way back to Santiago, Erik did me a huge favor by driving me through Parral.

Parral is the birthplace of Pablo Neruda, perhaps the greatest poet of the 20th century, and one of my personal heroes. It was a wonderful feeling to be in his hometown, and helped me understand how he came to love the land, the mountains, and the people of Chile so much.

It was a wonderful trip. I had an amazing time and was shown a part of Chile that most tourists don't get to see. I learned a great deal (to be elaborated later) and also ate a great deal. I met a lot of people and saw some of the most beautiful sights I've ever seen. Enjoy my pictures, I hope that you like them. Thanks.

Chilean Cuisine, Part IV Continued

Chilean ¨huasos¨dancing the ¨cueca,¨ the national

dance of Chile.

The president of Chile, Michelle Bachelet, drinking

chicha from a cacho to commence the independence day

parade.

Alto del Carmen pisco

First, I just have to say that today was too damned hot. It got to 90 degrees topside, but I had a meeting downtown so I had to take the metro today. Down below it was about 96 degrees in a standing heat, crammed together with thousands of other Santiaguenses. Then as I was leaving the train to go to the meeting, in my nice clothes which were already soaked with sweat, I passed under a mist-emitting fan that they thought would be a good idea to place on the walk out. Well, of course, the damned thing malfunction and I was hit with a wave of water, not a comfortable mist, so I was quite throughly drenched upon my arrival to the meeting.

Anyway, complaints aside, yesterday I mentioned that I would cover the rest of my Chilean liquor survey, and so that's what I'm going to do. Besides wine, Chileans drink just as heavily as Americans, and love beer, hard liquor, and mixed drinks. Here, by far, the most popular type of liquor is "pisco." Pisco is a white brandy that is distilled, as is regular brandy, from a mixture of different types of grapes. It's actually quite good, having a soft flavor and finish, but also a potency to it. The two main brands are Capel and Alto del Carmen. I prefer the later since it's much smother. The main way to consume pisco is the pisco-sour. It's a delicious mixture of lemon and lime juice with powdered sugar and pisco. It's very common to have a pisco sour to start of lunch or dinner, and is consumed equally in the winter and in the summer. Most people make it at home, but it can also be bought ready-made. I always have a bottle or two here and it's still very good ready-made. Pisco can also be mixed with Coca-Cola to make piscola, which is a personal favorite. You can buy pisco in the states, however you won't find any Chilean brands, only Peruvian. And as most things Peruvian, it blows and is way too expensive, ringing in at about $30 a bottle. If you live in Milwaukee, you can go to Cubanitas where they serve up pisco-sour, and it's not half bad, though nothing compared to buying your own $4 bottle of pisco and making your own here.

Besides pisco, Chileans love rum, whiskey, and now vodka is becoming more popular. As far as beer goes, there are plenty of Chilean and American brands (they just got Miller here this year), but the top brands are Cristal and Escudo. I drink Cristal when I rarely drink beer. A common action is to mix Fanta orange soda with beer to make a Fanchop, and it's pretty good, if you're a girl (women here generally don't drink beer) or my cousin Hans.

In addition, a very popular drink I just tried in September is called "chicha." It's similar to wine, though thicker and sweeter; I think of it in this analogy- apple juice is to apple cider as wine is to chicha. I personally can't stand the stuff, but being as it's very Chilean, they drink chicha by the gallon during their independence day. The cool thing about drinking chicha, though, is the way that it is drunk. Since it's something that originated among the "huasos," it's drunk out of a bull's horn in a contraption called a "cacho." Chilean culture is replete with homages to the huaso; the huaso is the Chilean version of the Argentine "gaucho," a South American cattle herder or cowboy. Being as I am quite the gringo tourist, I bought myself a beautiful, polished cacho with a silver holder engraved with my name. After following the directions of the huaso that sold it to me, which was to cure it for 36 hours with a strong aguardiente, it was ready to go. I'm very excited to bring this drinking phenomenon back to the states and implement it. Say goodbye to the boot and stein, and say hello to the cacho.

In addition to all these liquors, Chileans also consume a variety of specialty mixed drinks and that are very traditional, though most of them are very sweet. One common drink, mostly drunk at weddings and such, is Poncha ala Romana, which is Chilean champagne mixed with juice and pineapple sorbet (this one is a favorite of my mother's- she claims drinking too many of these at a wedding when she was 12 was the only time she's ever been drunk). Another concoction is called Cola Mono, which is a mixture of aguardiente liqueur, milk, and coffee, as is usually drunk around Christmas. Finally, piña coladas are also very popular. You can buy these ready made too, and are also good. The latest thing is Chirimoya Colada, which is the same as piña colada, except that instead of flavoring with pineapple, they flavor it with a delicious and popular fruit from here called a chirimoya. This is my new favorite.

I hope that you all enjoyed hearing about these drinks. I wish I could relay some of the recipes, but the necessary ingredients really don´t exist in the states, so you´ll have to wait until I come back or if you come visit.

I´m not sure what I will cover in my next cuisine installment, but as I come across things to show, I will post about them. Thanks for visiting and talk to you all soon.

Chilean Cuisine, Part IV

An example of Casillero del Diable Carmenere variety,

2007 reserve, about $4.00.

Let this be a lesson to all you hopeful bloggers out there in the world, and for that matter to anyone who has any sort of plan to accomplish any form of writing on a Friday evening, that it's nearly impossible if you have any sort of social life. I guess I should have known better, especially when you consider that I was planning on writing a section about Chilean spirits.

Well, I am still going to talk about Chilean liquor, however I've decided to split this section into two. Today I'm going to talk about Chilean wine, seeing as it really deserves at least one post all to itself to do it justice.

As I'm sure many of you already know, Chile is very famous for its wine production. Although I am somewhat biased, I do believe Chile to be second to none in it's selection of red wine. I would gladly take up a Chilean cabernet sauvignon against any Napa, Sonoma, or Bordeaux production of the same type. Every Chilean knows a great deal about wine, and the serving of wine here is an art. Once in the US I attempted to send back a bottle of red wine in a restaurant because it was way too cold (red wine must be served at "cellar temperature," roughly 65-68 degrees fahrenheit), and he looked at me like I was crazy. In Chile, they wouldn't even think twice and would also apologize profusely. In the States people love the concept of "three buck Chuck" from Trader Joe's, being a very cheap and reasonably tasty medium red. However, one of the best parts of Chile is that you can go anywhere, order a bottle of wine for about $4, and it will be delicious, comparable to any $20 bottle of California wine.

Chile has hundreds of vineyards, ranging from tiny, family-owned wineries to big companies owned by famous wine names such as Rothschilds and Coppola. The biggest vineyard in Chile by far is Concha y Toro. Started in the middle of the 19th century, the vineyard now makes several brands, most notably Don Melchor and Casillero del Diablo. The former brand is the most reserve of varieties that they have, and a bottle of Don Melchor costs about $60 to about $200, depending on the year and grape variety (this is considered VERY expensive for a bottle). Casillero del Diablo is the mainstay of Concha y Toro, and a bottle here costs about $5. Fortunately for all of you, Casillero del Diablo is the most common Chilean brand found in wine cellars and liquor stores in the states. I suggest either a bottle of 2005 (about $25) or a bottle of 2007 reserve, which will cost you about $12 to $15, I believe. If you're looking for a nice way to impress the lady friend (or shock the boyfriend), order a bottle of Cabernet Sauvignon from Casillero del Diablo (don't mess up the pronunciation, it's ka-si-YE-ro del Diablo, not ka-si-LE-ro). You can tell your date that it's a great wine to accompany red meat, chicken, or pasta due to it's medium body with hints of black currants and plum, and finishes with a mild oak taste.

If you, however, will be dining on fish, red wine really isn't acceptable. This is more of an American custom. In Chile, you can drink any kind of wine you'd like at any time because they are more concerned about personal preference than custom. However, as I have been raised mostly a gringo, I only drink white wine with fish. I never thought of Chile as a hub of white wine, however in the past 20 years the country has also emerged as a leader in Sauvignon Blanc and other white varieties. I prefer dry wine and so when drinking white wine I always drink Sauvignon Blanc. In the states, white varieties are less common, but the same years and brands apply.

Lastly, Chile is now home to really the only supply of Carmenere grapes. Carmenere is a grape originally from the Bordeaux region of France and was used in blends with Cabernet grapes to produce deeply red and dry wines. In 1867, a disease struck all the vineyards that produced the Carmenere grades in France and so today it's nearly impossible to find the variety there. However, the grape survived in Chile because growers here were using it in place of Merlot grapes which were less common and harder to grow here. Today, Carmenere is known as something distinctly Chilean and is a wonderful alternative to merlot, though I have not seen it in the states.

Other Chilean brands to check out are Santa Rita and Valdivieso, two brands that I know make it to the states. Chilean wine has a great reputation and many are switching from French to Chilean due to a better price-quality ratio. I encourage you guys to experiment, because that's the only way to see what you really like.

Well now that I feel horribly pretentious and somewhat of a douche bag, I hope that you all learned something and were inspired to expand your palettes. 

Stay tuned later today for Part IV 1/2, where I cover the rest of Chilean liqor.

Chilean Cuisine, Part III

A lemon with marzipan and meringue torte.

The cake that I purchased.

These are variations of a common sweet filled with manjar

called "torta milojas," literally cake of one thousand leaves.

Other sweets. From right to left: meringue filled with manjar,

a sugar-coated alfajor, torta milojas, and a meringue tart.

The incredible, edible marraqueta.

Today, rather than talk about just one item of Chilean cuisine, I'm going to survey a wide variety of Chilean Bakery. Here, there are two different types of bakeries. In the US, usually one bakery sells both bread, cakes, candy, and what not; in Chile a "panaderia" is a place you go to buy bread and other things like that. A "dulceria" is the place you go to buy cakes, sweets, cookies, and other things of the sort. I have the luxury of living next to arguably the best dulceria in Santiago, and so will grace you with a few photos of those.

For bread, Chileans most commonly do not buy it by the loaf. You can buy any type of loaf bread you want, but here it's obvious that the "marraqueta" and the "hallulla" reign supreme in that department. The marraqueta is the base of Chilean bread consumption, and makes up about 70% of all bread sold. It's a simple bread, derived from French tradition, that is composed of four small pieces joined together. The marraqueta is used for everything from toast to hot dog buns to sandwich bread. The hallulla is another common bread usually consumed for breakfast or for tea. It's round and very buttery and delicious.

As for pastries and other sweets, it's likely that the vast majority contain manjar, a caramel-like jelly that is known in the states as "dulce de leche," due to it's origin in boiling condensed milk. Of all of these, my personal favorite is the "alfajor," basically two cookies filled with manjar in between. However, the alfajor comes in a shapes and sizes, and can be found dipped in chocolate, with rum and raisins, orange, or marzipan. In addition, most of the cakes to be found include manjar in some way. Last week I had tea with some of my mother's friends and bought them a cake that contained layered filling of thin crust, apricot jelly, and manjar. The crust was made of marzipan, which is a sweet almond paste. It was unbelievable and if any of you should come visit me, I'll have to buy you a cake of this sorts or some variation. I hope that these pictures entice you and prove just how delicious Chilean bakery is. It's so good I think it's better than anything we've got in the states. Enjoy!

Preview for tomorrow: A guide to Chilean booze.